Natalia

As an intermissive and meditative jaunt, I’ve made these hand welted baby shoes. I’ve made them as a present for my infant niece, built to last a lifetime…

Natalia autumn leaves

Decorated outsoles:

Natlia underside.jpg

Construction:

I’ve made an effort to construct these shoes as if I were making adult shoes. Wherever possible, I’ve used the same methods and techniques as I’d normally use for an adult shoe. Indeed, these baby shoes are hand welted.

I actually started with the intention to make a balmoral boot, and made a pattern with tape and flexible cardboard. While putting the uppers together, I decided to skip putting on the shafts – even though I had shafts cut out, dyed, lined and ready to go. I just really liked the way they looked as little lady shoes, without boot shafts.

Eager to keep the shoe lightweight and 100% veg tanned, I used the same 2 oz vegetable tanned baby calf leather for uppers as well as lining. The uppers were dyed with Fiebing’s alcohol based leather dye.

02 lining.jpg

Some tiny heel stiffeners were cut out of the same 2 oz baby calf as uppers and lining. The stiffeners were inserted at the heels with Hirschkleber craft paste. I should’ve included a match or something for reference in the image below, but these stiffeners were really tiny:

03 heel stiffener.jpg

Toe puffs of the same leather were lasted with Hirschkleber underneath.

03 toe puff.jpg

Lasted toe puff from above:

04 toe puff.jpg

Once fully lasted, Natalia was starting to take shape:

06 lasted.jpg

I trimmed the edges and inserted some tiny wooden shanks for good measure, cut out from adult sized shanks. (Thanks again, Antoine!) Not because the shoes need shanks – just “because”.

08 trimmed and shanked.jpg

Then I hand-welted the shoes. Due to the small size and rather thin insoles, I didn’t do an English welt (which is to say, I didn’t sew through a channel in the insoles). I used 4 oz veg tanned calf side for the welt and rand combo piece.

hand welted baby shoe.jpg

The footbeds were filled with cork. In this case, not because I expect the cork to form after the feet for long-lasting comfort, so much as because I needed to fill it up with something…

welted baby shoe.jpg

I stuck on some 9 oz veg tanned shoulder as outsoles and shaped a baby fiddle decoration with a bone folder. Then I made the outsole stitching with an open channel.

baby leather outsole.jpg

A view from above of the outsole stitch before finishing:

baby shoe welted outsole.jpg

I then built the heels with 9 oz vegetable tanned shoulder, and finished Natalia like any other shoe I’ve done. I polished them like I would polish any shoe – with Saphir Medaille d’Or Renovateur, Créme 1925, and Pate de luxe.

Natalia heels.jpg

Natalia was made to match Ericsberg, a pair of shoes I’ve previously made for myself:

Natalia Ericsberg.jpg

The upper leather used is obviously much thinner on Natalia (though the lining is the same), but I’ve dyed Natalia in the same manner as Ericsberg. To further match the shoes, I’ve used the same thread for hand-sewing the uppers, and the same bright orange thread for the outsole stitch.

I look forward to be wearing Ericsberg next to Natalia when the recipient comes of age.

Specs:

Construction: hand welted, hand sewn uppers.
Last:
 Vintage boot lasts
Uppers:
2 oz vegetable tanned baby calf
Lining: 2 oz vegetable tanned baby calf
Insoles: 9 oz vegetable tanned shoulder
Sockliner: 2 oz vegetable tanned baby calf
Outsoles: 9 oz vegetable tanned shoulder
Toe/heel stiffeners: 2 oz vegetable tanned baby calf
Rand/welt combo piece: 4 oz vegetable tanned calf
Shank: Wood
Heel lifts: 9 oz vegetable tanned shoulder

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