Choosing Leather

Choosing leather for shoes

These are my current thoughts on leather choices for the various parts of a handmade shoe. Please consider this page as a glimpse into a hobbyists mind in the middle of a journey, and nothing more.

That said, I’ve found it is of utmost importance to choose leather wisely for any project. (I’ve learned and re-learned this the hard way several times.)

Vegetable tanned vs. Chrome tanned

Vegetable tanned leather is the mother of leathers. It’s tanned through a traditional process, free of harmful chemicals, and with a genuine smell. It ages beautifully over time, takes dye with ease, and is very durable. You can moisten, shape and stamp vegetable tanned leather in ways that you simply cannot do with chrome tanned leather. On the downside, veg tanned leather is more difficult to work with in some aspects (while easier in others), and its ability to soak up water like a sponge is not always beneficial.

In the other side of the ring, we have chrome tanned leather. The absolute vast majority of men’s quality shoes (I would guess something like 99%) are made with uppers that are chrome tanned. This leather offers superior durability and resistance to the elements. Chrome tanned leather is easier to work with in many aspects, more water resistant, and for good and bad it doesn’t really ‘age’. Premium chrome tanned leather takes shoe polish extremely well.

So, which way to go? The answer tends to be a mixture of both: usually chrome tanned uppers (and sometimes also lining), and veg tanned for everything else. It is certainly an option to use 100% vegetable tanned leather for a pair of shoes, uppers and all. (I’ve made a few like that.) Regardless of the upper leather, some parts of the shoe must be vegetable tanned as explained below.

Cut

Even if you get the most expensive, top dollar hide, all parts of that same premium hide will not be created equal. As can be read in Analysis of leather and materials used in making it (1931), this image pretty much sums it up:

leather cuts

Stretch

The natural stretch direction of the leather must be taken into consideration when cutting out the pieces. Closer to the spine, the leather stretches alongside ‘with’ the spine (from front to butt), and is firm in the other direction. Closer to the belly, the deal is the opposite: here the leather stretches up/down (from spine to belly), and is more firm in the other direction (from butt to front). I place the patterns so that the stretch direction of each individual upper piece goes in under the last of the shoe.

Upper leather

Upper leather should ideally be between 3 and 5 oz in thickness, which is equivalent to ca 1.2 – 2.0 mm. No thinner, no thicker. For a first shoe project, I’d favor around 3-4 oz chrome tanned calf for uppers.

Upper leather can be sourced cheaply, or it can be veery pricey. For an amateur starting out, I would recommend something like this, or this, or this. For an aspiring shoemaker getting read to take the leap into professionality, or for that matter an existing pro, I would recommend this. (And, “just because”: for someone with way too much time and money at their disposal, I would recommend this.)

Depicted here is an upper in Tannerie d’Annoay scotch grain.

07-upper

The best calf leather for shoes that is known to man is available at Kolde Leder and A&A Crack & Sons. It’s also very expensive for a private persons pocket. These retailers between them stock international top quality product like Horween shell cordovan, Tannerie d’Annonay, Tanneries Du Puy, and Weinheimer/Freudenberg box calf, etc.

For the hobbyist getting started, far more affordable alternatives are offered at buyleatheronline. As long as cost is a big issue, I would advise against getting the most expensive and qualitative leather for your first couple of pairs. Many professionals give opposite advice, and advocate going straight for the end goal and using the highest quality of materials from the get go. That is certainly a more efficient way to learn how to work with ‘the real deal’ (which is indeed more difficult) – but it’s also way more expensive.

Lining

Lining is ideally made from vegetable tanned calf IMO, between 2 and 3 oz in thickness (ca 0.8 to 1.2 mm). My favorite lining is this 0,8 mm vegetable tanned baby calf.

Chrome tanned leather can also be used as lining. For instance, 0.6 mm chrome tanned goat skin is rather thin and easy to work with.

Beading

Inserting beading between uppers and lining is optional. I often like to use a thin, 1 oz chrome tanned leather as beading. A nice and cheap option for starting out would be 1 oz lamb.

Toe puff & heel counter (stiffeners)

Toe puffs and heel counter stiffeners should be veg tanned. I’ve mainly used 5 oz pure veg tanned and 5-6 oz veg tan Tärnsjö garveri, and sometimes experimented with 5 oz latigo tanned shoulder leather. Depicted below is a 5 oz pure veg tanned toe puff, first lasted on top of the lining with Hirschkleber and then trimmed and sanded once dry, to keep a crisp feather edge.

06 toe chisel

Rand

Veg tan according to preference. I like to use ca 7-8 oz veg tan from Tärnsjö Tannery.

19 welted again

Welt

I like natural colored welting leather from Leather & Grindery. You can also make your own from veg tanned leather in your thickness of choice, preferrably about the same thickness as the rand.

02 Hand welted.jpg

Insoles

The insole is the core of the shoe. Thick, vegetable tanned calf should do the trick, between 11 and 14 oz depending on the desired result. I’ve used 12-13 oz veg tan from Tärnsjö Garveri, 11 oz Italian dorsal and 12-13 oz veg tanned butt (which works fine but is very difficult to work with due to its hard temper). My favorite thus far (and coincidentally the most expensive) is buffed insole shoulder from Baker, shown below.

01 Thick Insole

Outsoles

Thick ol’ hard tempered veg tan, around 12 oz. For leather sole shoes, I most often use 9 iron (equivalent to 12 oz) J. Rendenbach outsoles. It’s of course possible to go both up or down in thickness, depending on preference. Rendenbach is widely considered one of the best outsole manufacturers in the world).

Augusta Outsole

Heel lifts

Any veg tanned leather will do, with a thickness depending on how thick lifts you want. The easiest way to start is to use outsole leather. The thicker the lifts, the easier to make – the thinner, the more prestigious. Depicted below is 5 mm heel lifts.

heel glassing

Summary

For someone starting out on a shoemaking journey, trying to keep the costs down low and the amount of different leather types to a minimum, I would probably advise to get the following leathers.

Upper: 3-4 oz dollar printed calf
Lining (and optional beading): 2 oz baby calf
Toe puff, heel stiffener, rand and welt: 6 oz / 2,5 mm veg tan
Insoles: 11 oz dorsal
Outsole + heel lifts: 13 oz veg tanned butt (or the same option in 9-10 oz for a thinner sole).

The list above is by no means the highest quality options, but it would certainly make do to start. The leathers mentioned should be enough for about three pairs of shoes with some excess, and weighs in at 308€ at the time of writing. (Some additional hardware required, like top lifts and shanks, and of course stuff like glue and nails, etc. See my page List of materials for the other stuff needed.) Going for the highest quality leathers from the start would add a couple of hundred dollars/euro to a first purchase, and require ordering from different suppliers. I’ll return here to summarize some options for upgrades.