Stockholm: Summary

It’s been close to 500 years since the Stockholm bloodbath. In solemn remembrance of this gruesome event, I have made these shoes.

“Stockholm” is a hand sewn, hand welted, burgundy wholecut. Vibram stick-on rubber soles make the shoes suitable for november strolls across blood-soaked cobblestone.

Only hand-held tools were used in production. This post is a display of the finished shoes – in Part 1 and Part 2 I describe how they were made.

Stockholm shoe.jpg

Construction: handmade with hand-held tools, English welted
Last:
 Springline, Ref 977, wood, scoop and screw, size UK 10F
Uppers:
3-4 oz chrome tanned madras printed calf side
Lining: 2 oz vegetable tanned crust baby calf
Insoles: 12-13 oz vegetable tanned crust calf butt
Sockliner: 4 oz vegetable tanned crust calf side
Outsoles:  12-13 oz vegetable tanned crust calf butt
Stick-on soles: Vibram 1.8 mm
Toe stiffeners: 4 oz vegetable tanned crust calf side
Heel stiffeners: 
5 oz latigo tanned calf shoulder
Rand/welt combo piece: 5 oz vegetable tanned crust shoulder
Shank: Plastic
Heel lifts: 12-13 oz vegetable tanned crust calf butt + 5 oz vegetable tanned crust shoulder
Top lifts: vegetable tanned (1/4 rubber) J. Rendenbach

All leather used is 1st grade.

I made a slight fiddleback waist for decoration, and kept the bottoms black:

Stockholm outsoles.jpg

The sole stitch was made with 1 mm waxed polyester thread in burgundy:

outsole seam.jpg

Here’s Stockholm out and about:

Stockholm.jpg

I accidentally cut a finger while working on the outsoles, and only noticed it because a part of the outsole became spotted red. I did not mean for it to happen, but as fate would have it, my blood is in these shoes.

2 comments

  1. Hello
    Nice work as usual…

    I hope your finger is all right. Most of my shoes have some blood too… I think that’s part of the handmade process 😁

    I noticed that you have only made Oxford shoes so far. Is it by choice ? Do you plan to make derbies, boots or loafers ?

    By the way, I am finishing a new pair (penny loafers), and will post the related articles in a few days.

    Best regards
    Antoine

    Like

    • Too kind, as usual – thank you Antoine! My finger was OK within two minutes, so there’s no need to worry. 😉

      I think I have mainly made oxfords because they *are* my favorite model – but they are also the type of shoe that Andrew Wrigley made in his youtube series (which is what got me started in the first place). I would really like to make loafers and boots (especially jodhpurs and balmorals), as well as give derbies an honest attempt. Just saw your loafers – very nice work!

      Kind regards / R

      Like

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