It’s been close to 500 years since the Stockholm bloodbath. In solemn remembrance of this gruesome event, I have made these shoes.
“Stockholm” is a hand sewn, hand welted, burgundy wholecut. Vibram stick-on rubber soles make the shoes suitable for november strolls across blood-soaked cobblestone.
Only hand-held tools were used in production. This post is a display of the finished shoes – in Part 1 and Part 2 I describe how they were made.
Construction: handmade with hand-held tools, English welted
Last: Springline, Ref 977, wood, scoop and screw, size UK 10F
Uppers: 3-4 oz chrome tanned madras printed calf side
Lining: 2 oz vegetable tanned crust baby calf
Insoles: 12-13 oz vegetable tanned crust calf butt
Sockliner: 4 oz vegetable tanned crust calf side
Outsoles: 12-13 oz vegetable tanned crust calf butt
Stick-on soles: Vibram 1.8 mm
Toe stiffeners: 4 oz vegetable tanned crust calf side
Heel stiffeners: 5 oz latigo tanned calf shoulder
Rand/welt combo piece: 5 oz vegetable tanned crust shoulder
Shank: Plastic
Heel lifts: 12-13 oz vegetable tanned crust calf butt + 5 oz vegetable tanned crust shoulder
Top lifts: vegetable tanned (1/4 rubber) J. Rendenbach
All leather used is 1st grade.
I made a slight fiddleback waist for decoration, and kept the bottoms black:
The sole stitch was made with 1 mm waxed polyester thread in burgundy:
Here’s Stockholm out and about:
I accidentally cut a finger while working on the outsoles, and only noticed it because a part of the outsole became spotted red. I did not mean for it to happen, but as fate would have it, my blood is in these shoes.
Hello
Nice work as usual…
I hope your finger is all right. Most of my shoes have some blood too… I think that’s part of the handmade process 😁
I noticed that you have only made Oxford shoes so far. Is it by choice ? Do you plan to make derbies, boots or loafers ?
By the way, I am finishing a new pair (penny loafers), and will post the related articles in a few days.
Best regards
Antoine
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Too kind, as usual – thank you Antoine! My finger was OK within two minutes, so there’s no need to worry. 😉
I think I have mainly made oxfords because they *are* my favorite model – but they are also the type of shoe that Andrew Wrigley made in his youtube series (which is what got me started in the first place). I would really like to make loafers and boots (especially jodhpurs and balmorals), as well as give derbies an honest attempt. Just saw your loafers – very nice work!
Kind regards / R
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