And so it was that six kinds of Italian leather, cut with knives, burned by fire, hammered and penetrated by steel, has taken it’s final form. Gripsholm is born.
Construction: handmade with hand-held tools
Last: Springline 977, solid wood, size UK 10F
Uppers: 3 oz (1,2 mm) chrome tanned calf in dark brown, contrasted by 3-4 oz (1,4 mm) chrome tanned calf in dark brown pebble grain
Lining: 2 oz (0,8 mm) vegetable tanned baby calf, crust
Top beads: None (folded over 3-4 oz upper leather).
Insoles: 12-13 oz (5 mm) vegetable tanned calf butt
Insoles (sock liner): 4 oz (1,6 mm) vegetable tanned calf side
Mid/outsole: 12-13 oz (5 mm) vegetable tanned calf butt
Extra outsoles: Dainite Logger, rubber (half sole)
Toe/heel stiffeners: 5 oz (2 mm) vegetable tanned calf shoulder, attached with Hirschkleber
Rand and welt piece: 5 oz (2 mm) vegetable tanned calf shoulder
Heel lifts: 5 oz (2 mm) vegetable tanned calf shoulder, attached with Hirschkleber, pegged
Top lifts: Dainite Logger, rubber
The rand and welt made from an intact piece of leather came out nicely. The derby facings weren’t exactly symmetrical, making the shoes appear a bit crooked. Folding the leather over made for slightly assymetrical pieces. The baby calf lining was very comfortable from the get go – the shoes fit me splendidly and required no breaking in. Despite the mistakes, as I consider this an experiment shoe, I am still content.
Here is Gripsholm as seen from above:
And here’s one of the shoes flipped over, displaying its fiddleback waist:
It’s a bit rugged, being my first attempt at such a waist, but let’s have another look at that fiddleback:
The welt was tucked snug against the shoe, and there is no joint separating the rand and welt:
Here is the tight welt as seen looking from the ball towards the toe:
The heel lfts turned out much better than on previous pairs. I burnished these heel lifts prior to applying gum thragacanth with a cotton chamois (which is a fancy way of saying: with a ripped up Fruit of the Loom t-shirt).
The outsole edge was also burnished before being treated with gum thragacanth (and then waxed with mirror gloss and pate de lux):
Ready for some countryside woodchopping:
Gripsholm and I then ventured out into the world…
If you look closley at the footprint of Gripsholm, you can see the fiddleback waist leaving its mark in the Swedish snow.