Augusta: Part 1

Augusta will be an austerity brogue adelaide spectator in dark chocolate and white. I guess I have a thing for austerity brogues, and for spectators… The design is heavily inspired by golf shoes, and the uppers are (litterally) made out of game.

I made the tape pattern on december 27th, on my favorite Springline #977 lasts:

shoe design.jpg

I cut the tape from the lasts and transferred it to cardboard.

shoe pattern.jpg

The upper pieces were cut out from 3-4 oz deerskin in white and dark brown. They were cemented together with Renia Gummilösing before it was time to punch out the sewing holes. As with all leather, the color of the deerskin behaves very differently in different lighting.

punching holes.jpg

“Zoom in and enhance!”

sewing uppers.jpg

I sewed the uppers by hand using two needles. As usual, this took ages.

sewing leather.jpg

In this light, the color is better represented:

shoe uppers.jpg

I put beading in made with 1 oz baby calf, lined the uppers with 2 oz veg tanned baby calf, and set some YKK eyelets.

eyelets.jpg

I made a pair of tongues with the same leathers for upper, beading and lining.

shoe tongue.jpg

With the lasts talced up and the veg tanned lining moistened, I lasted the lining. I didn’t photograph the insoles, but they were made with my usual 13 oz hard temper veg tanned calf butt. I made a channel and holes on the insoles, as I prefer pre-made holes when welting later.

lasted lining.jpg

Because the upper leather is very soft, even though the lining is quite sturdy, I figured I might need some added stability. Hence, I decided to experiment with side-stiffeners. I haven’t put in side stiffeners in any shoes I’ve previously made, which has worked out well as far as I can deem. For this pair however, I made a couple of short side stiffeners out of 4 oz veg tanned calf side.

side stiffener.jpg

While the stiffeners at the toe and heel were put in with Hirschkleber as usual, I decided to put the side-stiffeners in with Renia Gummilösung. The stiffeners were well skived on all edges. Here’s a view from under the last:

side stiffener shoe.jpg

With added Hirschkleber to the top of the toe and heel stiffeners, and added Renia Gummilösing to the top of the side stiffeners, I lasted the shoes.

lasted.jpg

And so, Augusta is starting to take shape.

lasted shoes.jpg

Continue reading Part 2 »

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