Augusta: Part 2

The Masters at Augusta 2019 is less than 2 months away, and the making of the (unofficial) Augusta shoe is progressing.

While lasting the heels of Augusta I allowed some Hirschkleber to go in under the insoles, as I usually do. This 3-4 oz deerskin is tremendously supple, which allowed for a very clean trimming around the heels.

01 Trimmed heels.jpg

I pegged a rand/welt combo piece onto the shoes, and welted them through the holdfast I had carved in the 5 mm veg tanned insoles.

welting.jpg

I slid in some plastic shanks, and filled the footbed with one layer of 6 mm sheet cork. Then I covered the top of the shank in a couple of layers of vegetable tanned leather of varying thickness, and put in some skived 4 oz veg tanned calf side at the top of the toe to even out the thickness there. I skived merely a tip of 5 oz veg tanned shoulder and cemented to the middle of the waist, to help with creating a nice waist decoration of the outsole.

hand welted.jpg

I had prepared the J. Rendenbach outsoles by letting them soak for about 2 hours in warm water, then rest wrapped up in a towel for 24 hours, and then aired without the towel for maybe two hours. I cemented them onto the shoes, and went to work with a bone folder to create a fiddleback waist.

outsole decoration.jpg

I returned another day to re-moisten the outsoles and carved a flap open to do the outsole seam at 8 spi.

sewing outsole.jpg

It’s only visible for moments, but I do like the look of a stitched outsole from underneath with the flap still open. After this image was taken, I cemented it shut.

outsole flap.jpg

Once fully dry, I sanded the outsole edges and used some broken glass (sourced for free from a local glass smith) to even it out. Then I sanded some more, and glassed some more, and sanded some more. The glass I got was slightly too thick, so I think the results would be better if the glass would be slightly thinner.

glassing outsole.jpg

I also went to work on the heels, determined to make my nicest looking heels yet. The second rand was made with 5 oz veg tanned split shoulder, and the heel lifts are 12-13 oz veg tanned butt. The top lift is JR 1/4 rubber. I rough sanded the heels with heavy sand paper, and then rasped them with a regular toolbox rasp (as I have yet to obtain a proper shoemaker’s rasp). Then I sanded them with 180 grit sand paper, after which I glassed them. Then I sanded a couple of times with 320 grit sand paper, and glassed again. As a final touch, I sanded a couple of times with 600 grit sand paper.

sanding heels.jpg

I have yet to proceed with the finale of the finishing process, but aim to do so shortly and return.

Continue to the summary of the finished shoes »

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