Gotham: Summary

Gotham is a hand welted austerity brogue spectator with hand sewn uppers in black and black. Only hand-held tools were used in production.

This post is a display of the finished shoes – in Part 1 and Part 2 I describe how they were made.

Gotham City shoe.jpg

“It’s not who I am underneath, but what I do that defines me.”

Gotham outsole.jpg

Lasting this hard brush-off leather was tricky, but worked out well for my standards.

Gotham toe.jpg

My heel finishing is slowly but surely evolving, but I still can’t quite get the rubber of the top lift to conform.

Gotham heels.jpg

I don’t plan to use them outside until spring is come, but had to take them for some fresh air into the the light of day.

Gotham shoes.jpg

Gotham was made with the same pattern as Wik, which is a shoe I’ve worn regularly for one season. Which would you prefer?

Gotham Wik.jpg

Edit: and here they are in my driveway, at the premiere tour off to work:

Gotham.jpg

Specs:

Construction: handmade with hand-held tools only, English welted
Last: 
Springline #977, size UK 10F
Uppers: 
4 oz black calf + 3 oz black brush-off calf
Lining: 2 oz vegetable tanned crust baby calf
Top beads: 1 oz chrome tanned baby calf, black
Tongues: 4 oz black calf
Insoles: 12-13 oz vegetable tanned crust calf butt
Sockliner: 4 oz vegetable tanned crust calf side
Outsoles: 9-10 oz vegetable tanned crust calf butt
Stick-on soles: Vibram 1.8 mm
Toe/heel stiffeners: 4 oz vegetable tanned crust calf side
Rand/welt combo piece: 5 oz vegetable tanned crust shoulder
Second rand: 5-6 oz vegetable tanned split shoulder
Shank: Plastic
Heel lifts: 9 oz vegetable tanned crust shoulder
Top lifts: vegetable tanned (1/4 rubber) J. Rendenbach

2 comments

  1. I think it has much merit. I´m Manuel from Spain, if you need help or advice do not hesitate to me, you can see my publications in Styleforum, I upload a lot of information about bespoke shoes. You type Manuel name in the search tool.
    The best.
    Manuel.

    Like

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