The shoes are crafted with seven different kinds of vegetable tanned leather (of which one is latigo tanned), as listed below. In these images, the shoes have been polished only with Renovateur medaille d’or, and some pate de lux in neutral.
Construction: handmade with hand-held tools, English welted
Last: Vintage mystery lasts from german ebay, heavily adjusted.
Uppers: 4 oz vegetable tanned calf side
Lining: 2 oz vegetable tanned baby calf
Insoles: 12-13 oz vegetable tanned calf butt
Insoles (sock liner): 4 oz vegetable tanned calf side
Outsoles: 9 Iron J. Rendenbach
Toe/heel stiffeners: 5 oz latigo tanned calf shoulder
Rand/welt combo piece: 5 oz vegetable tanned shoulder
Heel lifts: 9 oz vegetable tanned shoulder
Top lifts: vegetable tanned (1/4 rubber) J. Rendenbach
The 5 oz pure veg tanned leather used for the welt was much easier to finish nicely.
My second attempt at a fiddleback waist:
The color behaves very differently in different lighting.
On the feet of the recipient in the evening sun:
And here Gefle is worn in the shadow, next to me wearing Ericsberg. (It’s obvious which one of us is the evil brother.)
There are still many areas to perfect, of course, but there are also improvements with every pair. A part of my life walked away tonight, as my elder brother took Gefle home.