This post is a display of the finished shoes – in the construction post, I describe in detail how they were made.
The outsoles are oak bark tanned J. Rendenbach, just slightly beveled.
The outsoles were sewn at 9 spi with black waxed polyester thread, hidden in fudging.
Viewed from an angle as above, the welt is evident. Viewed from above (as shown below), the welt is quite hidden.
Finishing is one of the toughest chapters of shoemaking, IMO. It’s far from complete, but at least my finishing game is improving.
Here’s London on my veranda.
And in the clouded winter daylight of my driveway:
Construction: English welted
Uppers: 3-4 oz black calf
Lining: 2 oz vegetable tanned crust baby calf
Insoles: 9-10 oz veg tanned calf side from Tärnsjö Garveri
Outsoles: J. Rendenbach 9 iron
Toe/heel stiffeners: 5 oz from Tärnsjö Garveri
Side stiffeners: 4 oz vegetable tanned crust calf side
Rand: 5-6 oz veg tan from Tärnsjö Garveri
Welt: natural welting leather from Leather & Grindery
Shank: Metal, from Leather & Grindery UK
Heel lifts: 9-10 oz veg tanned butt
Top lifts: vegetable tanned (1/4 rubber) J. Rendenbach
Sockliner: 4 oz vegetable tanned crust calf side