London: Summary

The latest sibling in the secret cap toe oxford family (akin to Upsala and Aaros), London is born.

This post is a display of the finished shoes – in the construction post, I describe in detail how they were made.

00 London

The outsoles are oak bark tanned J. Rendenbach, just slightly beveled.

07 Outsoles.jpg

The outsoles were sewn at 9 spi with black waxed polyester thread, hidden in fudging.

02 Fudge Detail.jpg

Viewed from an angle as above, the welt is evident. Viewed from above (as shown below), the welt is quite hidden.

04 Toe from above.jpg

Finishing is one of the toughest chapters of shoemaking, IMO. It’s far from complete, but at least my finishing game is improving.

05 heels.jpg

Here’s London on my veranda.

06 veranda.jpg

And in the clouded winter daylight of my driveway:

01 Outdoors.jpg

Specs:

Construction: English welted
Uppers:  
3-4 oz black calf
Lining: 2 oz vegetable tanned crust baby calf
Insoles: 9-10 oz veg tanned calf side from Tärnsjö Garveri
Outsoles: J. Rendenbach 9 iron
Toe/heel stiffeners: 5 oz from Tärnsjö Garveri
Side stiffeners: 4 oz vegetable tanned crust calf side
Rand: 5-6 oz veg tan from Tärnsjö Garveri
Welt: natural welting leather from Leather & Grindery
Shank: Metal, from Leather & Grindery UK
Heel lifts: 9-10 oz veg tanned butt
Top lifts: vegetable tanned (1/4 rubber) J. Rendenbach
Sockliner: 4 oz vegetable tanned crust calf side

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