This is my 18th pair of adult shoes. While there is of course much room for improvement, this is easily my best work yet in terms of construction. I also think it’s the most esthetically pleasing pair thus far, much thanks to the Epsom printed upper leather from Tanneries du Puy, and a developed finishing process.
This post is a display of the finished shoes – in the construction post, I describe how they were made.
The outsole seams were hand stitched at 9 spi.
A detail image of the upper stitching, sewn on an old Pfaff 193.
Same motif, different angle.
And another heel shot:
The heel pattern was made seamless, which is a look I really like.
The outsoles were finished in a ‘burned wood’ patina, using Fiebing’s pro dye.
Posing on asphalt.
And finally, the obligatory view from above:
Construction: English welted
Uppers: 4 oz Epsom printed Tanneries du Puy
Lining: 2 oz vegetable tanned crust baby calf
Insoles: 11 oz Italian veg tan
Outsoles: J. Rendenbach 9 iron
Toe/heel stiffeners: 5 oz from Tärnsjö Garveri
Side stiffeners: 4 oz vegetable tanned crust calf side
Rand: 5-6 oz veg tan from Tärnsjö Garveri
Welt: natural welting leather from Leather & Grindery
Shank: Plastic, from Leather & Grindery
Heel lifts: 5 mm veg tan from Leather & Grindery
Top lifts: J. Rendenbach (1/4 Rubber)
Sockliner: 4 oz vegetable tanned crust calf side