Disclaimer: This post contains an old attempt at shoemaking, during the beginning of my journey. I really didn’t know what I was doing at this time, and the post is left online for archive purposes only. Please do not “learn” anything from it, as the post is certainly riddled with mistakes. It’s just a documentation on some of my thoughts as a beginner in this venture. For a more updated view of my shoemaking, please see my latest posts instead.
This is my 18th pair of adult shoes. While there is of course much room for improvement, this is easily my best work yet in terms of construction. I also think it’s the most esthetically pleasing pair thus far, much thanks to the Epsom printed upper leather from Tanneries du Puy, and a developed finishing process.
This post is a display of the finished shoes – in the construction post, I describe how they were made.
The outsole seams were hand stitched at 9 spi.
A detail image of the upper stitching, sewn on an old Pfaff 193.
Same motif, different angle.
And another heel shot:
The heel pattern was made seamless, which is a look I really like.
The outsoles were finished in a ‘burned wood’ patina, using Fiebing’s pro dye.
Posing on asphalt.
And finally, the obligatory view from above:
Construction: English welted
Uppers: 4 oz Epsom printed Tanneries du Puy
Lining: 2 oz vegetable tanned crust baby calf
Insoles: 11 oz Italian veg tan
Outsoles: J. Rendenbach 9 iron
Toe/heel stiffeners: 5 oz from Tärnsjö Garveri
Side stiffeners: 4 oz vegetable tanned crust calf side
Rand: 5-6 oz veg tan from Tärnsjö Garveri
Welt: natural welting leather from Leather & Grindery
Shank: Plastic, from Leather & Grindery
Heel lifts: 5 mm veg tan from Leather & Grindery
Top lifts: J. Rendenbach (1/4 Rubber)
Sockliner: 4 oz vegetable tanned crust calf side