Waxholm: Part 1

02-Pattern
After an ‘intermission’ of sorts, in which I’ve produced a couple of non-shoe leather products, it’s finally time to make a pair of shoes again. I name this pair Waxholm, after the Waxholm Citadel. This is a cap toe oxford specator, suitable for strolling through a Citadel courtyard, though it’s very discreet as far as spectators go. The uppers are made out of dark brown calf (the very same calf as Wenngarn), contrasted by a dark brown pebble grain.

Again, I made the tape pattern on only one shoe and flipped the cardboard patterns over when clicking the leather.

01-Last

This is as far as I could take a pattern like this in two dimensions, before it needed to fold around the last and glue in three dimensions:

03-Clicking

Here, the uppers are sewn together, excluding around the opening and facing:

04-Uppers

The lining used for this pair is all vegetable tanned baby calf, 2 oz (0,8 mm).

05-Lining

Here the uppers are attached to the lining, excess has been cut off, the top-beads are in place (made of 1-2 oz black baby calf), and the facing is sewn a second lap to create a solid stitch. The sand-colored thread will take shoe cream very well.

08-Sewing

The insoles are made out of 12-13 oz (5,0 mm) vegetable tanned calf butt. Unlike on Wenngarn, I put a whole chunk of leather on the last to carve a feather edge on the last.

06-Outsole

While working with this thick vegetable tanned leather, it’s important to keep the leather moist and to never carve as if you’re aiming to stab yourself in a lung. I got a new knife for this purpose, which was very convenient to use. After the feather was carved, the insoles were re-moistened and thoroughly hammered into shape to fit snugly against the lasts. (Before lasting, the insoles were also removed entirely for a wee bit of fine-tuning.)

07-Outsole

After first lasting the entire shoe, all the nails were pulled out and just the lining was lasted. Once I had lasted the lining, I moistened it a little bit and hammered along the edges. This produced a nice edge on the veg tanned lining:

09-Lasting-lining

Closeup:

10-Lasting-lining

Then came the toe puff and heel counter. These were made out of 5 oz vegetable tanned shoulder leather, which was well moistened before lasting with Hirschkleber underneath and left to dry overnight. These too were very neatly lasted – I think I’m at least starting to get the hang of this. I also really like the color palette:

11-Lasting-puff-counter.jpg

Here’s one of the toe puffs while (almost) dry:

12-Lasting-puff-counter

Excess shoulder leather was gently cut off as preparation for the final lasting:

13-Toe-puff

The final lasting was successful (for being my second shoe):

14-Lasting

And here we are – Waxholm is taking shape:

15-Lasted

Continue reading Part 2 ⇨

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